Showing posts with label pattern making. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern making. Show all posts

Thursday, December 21, 2017

Part IV: Inventory.

Pattern Coding System Web Series:

Part I: The Coding.
Part II: The Photograph.
Part III: The Instructions.

The next part, which is the prelude to the finale of this five part pattern building system is the inventory tracking system.  It does not have to be fancy.  You make as simple this:


...to as extravagant as a database, with references, cross references, and indices utilizing MS Access/Support.

My choice now is the former, but of course if/when things outgrow my simple system, then it is off to something more sophisticated.

As it stands, I retain and update this listing as new patterns enter the 'inventory'.  I keep/maintain the current copy in a binder next to the drawer/box that stores the patterns.  When I add patterns, I do so manually by scratching notes at the bottom of this 'hard copy'.  Each month-end, I transfer these notes into the Word.doc inventory, whereby it receives the official update.

The inventory is superb.  It allows me to scan the listing to search out exactly what I want or need, without having to go through the patterns one-by-one. The effort is to the handle the patterns as infrequently as possible in order to maintain the life of the envelope.

Stay tuned to the next and final chapter of this series: Part V: Storage.

Quiz: How did I arrive at numbering Pattern # 10207/Crop Top, Walking Shorts?


Thursday, December 7, 2017

Pattern Coding System Part III: The Instructions.

Before I review briefly the "instructions" component of making a pattern for future use,  I want to direct those who are new to the series to these previous posts:

Pattern Coding System I: Coding
Pattern Coding System II: The Photograph

Without further delay, the instructions are a must have.  Sometimes the instructions can evolve from simple notes on the back of a story board, to a full scale instruction sheet that is available to the consumer for use.

No matter what these instructions look like, their intentions are the same, which is to aid the designer in reconstruction. I present to you a perfect example of a pattern originating in Dec/Jan 2015/2016, whereby an idea was born, but no instructions accompanied it. There was a simple prototype to what could evolve into a pattern, but it basically was a rough idea married to a re-purposed fabric. But the end was seamless. However, recently, a customer found the item on our Cyber Holiday Sale listing and leaped at the bonus price offered. Ironically, the plan was to create the pattern, only I had not carved out the time yet to do so. The envelope was ready.

Now is the time. A customer is waiting.

Here is the 2015 garment, purchased in a bulk direct sell order.

 dmoore0170

Here is the 2017 version from a constructed pattern. It is much like the original with only a few creative changes to improve use and wear by the doll model.

Re-creating Taryn 2010 (2017 edition)

In order to cement the 2017 version, photo/instructions were devised, rough notes, and of course pattern construction. Take a look at the collage, then the following notes...

Treated as a direct sell to a repeat customer, the customer was allowed to arbitrate some suggestions for the sleeve, that included an elastic wrist at the end. I initiated these suggestions as I found they worked well with the Prince Tribute "Purple Pop Star".
The t-shirt is from our B.O.C. Graphix Tee "Curly Girls United".  The skirt is more fitted than the original, 2015, and the customer selected the dark navy denim!  Great choice!


Instructions...most simplified, are:

1. Make sure that pattern pieces are cut, displayed on the fabrics of choice.  
2. Measure the doll model to ensure proper fit.
3. Cut pattern pieces.
4. Pull labels that are for intended use.  Select lace trim and thread for top stitching.
5. Overlock edges to prevent fraying.
 etc.

This is generic and simplified, but you get the idea. The instructions are going to direct you to an efficient garment or final piece without interruptions. If there are to be some checks/rechecks, then ultimately they are minimal to an otherwise chaotic process without instructions.

Fulfilling the instructions initially takes time. As you work through the process, you take careful notes especially if the pattern is for customer use. As an experienced seamstress, I tend to evade the details. This is because I like to leave myself some room from 'off the cuff' creativity. I am self-taught from human garment making, seeing and using patterns for over three decades.  With this experience comes a bit a fortitude, where you trust instincts. If this is instruction is a first draft pattern then the notes will definitely be useful to help flesh out a final draft.

Very often garments are produced a little larger and scaled down before pattern is drafted--in other words it is drape.  It is much easier and cost effective to adjust down than upwards.  If you cut too much, you have to restart.  Compare this to cooking using measurements of liquid and season.

Stay tuned to Part IV: Inventory.

Monday, November 20, 2017

Thankful.

I saw a post that asked "what are you thankful for" and the list is infinity.  But let me abbreviate that list in this moment and say "for the ability to do what I love and share it with the world".

Part of sharing my art is making sure that I am running efficiently.  Next to a good spiritual balance, clean diet and exercise, organization is paramount.

Here is an example of what disorganization can do.  I am slightly OCD about being unable to start unless every tool, even the ones not required for the project at hand, is present.  As this labor of love expanded, I grew to shoe making, which is actually the cornerstone to why I started.  Journey Girls had cute clothes, but their shoes just did not please me. My tools for this craft must be contained in one space.  I lose too much time digging and searching for every thing required.

But now...

Beauty of Creating, the new work space, for the 'cobbler' in me!

I have a dedicated space not just for 'tooling' footwear, but one with reasonably accommodating room for current projects. My vinyl stock no longer rests 'here' and 'there' but together.

Not all of my dolls fit on the top tier, but it holds 15, which is far better than I imagined. When I proposed this unit, I expected the depth to be the distance between the shelves. Instead, it is the distance from the front to back.  No, dolls are not able to stand on anywhere but the top tier.  This was a bonus that I really had not imagined upon ordering.  The height is perfect.

My space allows me to continue, unstressed for the finer details, to be able to continue to do what I love and share it with the world!

Friday, November 17, 2017

Pattern Coding System II - The Photograph

In a previous post back in May, I shared with you my creating a pattern coding system.  This coding system evolved from barely keeping track to an envelope with a date encoded tracking number with the necessary pieces for future retrieval.

Pattern pieces can quickly get away from if you are not filing them properly.  But you can also forget you have a pattern at all.  Here comes the 'photo' snapshot of the garment constructed to help speed up your recall of a previous sewing session.  Again, after many constructions of various patterns, garments, costumes, and shoes, somethings tend to run together into a big mind blur.


Taking a photograph of new patterns in their construct phase, as well as updating patterns that did not include photos, proves to be an incredible way to continue building a unique pattern drawer.

Next update: the Pattern Coding System III - The Instructions.

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Pattern Coding System...Must Have!

Many want to know the system I use to organize the many patterns I create.  In the last 1.5 years, over two dozen pattern constructions came to life.  If there is one or two or five, you can toss them in a drawer and maybe never use them again.

But for me this is not a one and done.  Many of the patterns created are the roots to designing a new pattern.  I need a system to not only organize the pattern pieces but have that system available for speedy recall without having to go through large volumes to find what I need.

After coding the pattern, I create an envelope, assign a photo from the garment, name it, then print.  All pieces fit into the envelope and the envelope goes into a file.  On a separate database, the patterns list in order, with an abbreviation of the garment.  I scan the abbreviations to find what I need then move over to the number.  It is much easier to find the pattern by name first.

Now let's take a look backwards at the coding system.

Like the store, there is a "dewey" system to code each pattern.  I do not randomly select numbers and assign it to a project.  The High-Low Blouse with Skinny Denim White Slacks #20522, derived from my denim pattern.  However, the blouse is new, which makes the pattern new!

The pattern number is minimally five digits.  It starts with the day of the week. A pattern made on Sunday starts with "1",  while one made on Wednesday starts with "4", etc.

The second number is the month.  Single digit numbers receive a "0" in the tens place.  For example May is the 5th month of the year, thus using "05".

Finally the third number of the pattern coding system is the calendar day of the month.

After planning the project and drafting the pattern, I look to the day/date which gives me the pattern number.  This pattern construction started and finished on Monday, May 24, 2017.  And that is how I coded the High-Low Blouse with Skinny Denim White Slacks Pattern #20522.





Thursday, April 27, 2017

Questions & Answers

How long have you been sewing?

BOC: I started sewing around the age of eight.  That is almost 40 years. The initial inspiration was to make doll clothes, for my “Darci Cover Girl” doll, from a Christmas wish granted.  The following Christmas I asked for a sewing machine. I received a Holly Hobbie, my first machine.  I continued to sew mostly by hand, taught to me by my mother.  She taught me the chain and the blind hem. My first sewing projects were repairing socks.

What inspires you to sew today?

BOC: The dolls continue to inspire me.  I mostly sew now for the larger dolls, 18” Journey Girls by Toys R Us.  I designed for Barbie for many years.

Where do get your ideas for clothing designs?

BOC: I draw inspiration from fashion concepts re-imagined.  Nothing is ever really out of style.  My first generation patterns took a lot of processing time. From there, ideas flourish and build from that foundation.

Did you take any formal training?

BOC: No.  I am self-taught.  I barely liked to read instruction manuals. For years, I audited store bought patterns simply because some of them had poor instructions. I discovered new ways to achieve the same thing or some variation.

How do you construct new ideas? What materials do you use in your pattern making?

BOC: I start with a picture of an original idea from an adult or child photo.  I start sketching the details with color pencils, giving it an initial code.  I then plan the fabric.  I either pencil the pattern to paper or drape from scraps.  My first draping material was felt scraps.  I still use whatever is handy.  I try not to throw a new construction onto the fabric used for the final garment.  Sometimes I do and the idea comes together nicely.  Other times the drafts help me to work out the struggles.

Any new projects or plans for the near future?

BOC: New projects come up all of the time.  The major projects are the new launch of the EBAY store.  I plan to create a commemorative design inspired by the late artist Prince.  In the fall, I will join SandyLand’s Detroit Doll Show as a vendor.

However, new inspirations, ideas, and events spring up all of the time.  I try to share this with the world.  It is my legacy.  I am grateful for social media, because it allows me to take the platform and reach people all over the world who I otherwise would never see locally.

Thanks for the questions!