Thursday, December 7, 2017

Pattern Coding System Part III: The Instructions.

Before I review briefly the "instructions" component of making a pattern for future use,  I want to direct those who are new to the series to these previous posts:

Pattern Coding System I: Coding
Pattern Coding System II: The Photograph

Without further delay, the instructions are a must have.  Sometimes the instructions can evolve from simple notes on the back of a story board, to a full scale instruction sheet that is available to the consumer for use.

No matter what these instructions look like, their intentions are the same, which is to aid the designer in reconstruction. I present to you a perfect example of a pattern originating in Dec/Jan 2015/2016, whereby an idea was born, but no instructions accompanied it. There was a simple prototype to what could evolve into a pattern, but it basically was a rough idea married to a re-purposed fabric. But the end was seamless. However, recently, a customer found the item on our Cyber Holiday Sale listing and leaped at the bonus price offered. Ironically, the plan was to create the pattern, only I had not carved out the time yet to do so. The envelope was ready.

Now is the time. A customer is waiting.

Here is the 2015 garment, purchased in a bulk direct sell order.

 dmoore0170

Here is the 2017 version from a constructed pattern. It is much like the original with only a few creative changes to improve use and wear by the doll model.

Re-creating Taryn 2010 (2017 edition)

In order to cement the 2017 version, photo/instructions were devised, rough notes, and of course pattern construction. Take a look at the collage, then the following notes...

Treated as a direct sell to a repeat customer, the customer was allowed to arbitrate some suggestions for the sleeve, that included an elastic wrist at the end. I initiated these suggestions as I found they worked well with the Prince Tribute "Purple Pop Star".
The t-shirt is from our B.O.C. Graphix Tee "Curly Girls United".  The skirt is more fitted than the original, 2015, and the customer selected the dark navy denim!  Great choice!


Instructions...most simplified, are:

1. Make sure that pattern pieces are cut, displayed on the fabrics of choice.  
2. Measure the doll model to ensure proper fit.
3. Cut pattern pieces.
4. Pull labels that are for intended use.  Select lace trim and thread for top stitching.
5. Overlock edges to prevent fraying.
 etc.

This is generic and simplified, but you get the idea. The instructions are going to direct you to an efficient garment or final piece without interruptions. If there are to be some checks/rechecks, then ultimately they are minimal to an otherwise chaotic process without instructions.

Fulfilling the instructions initially takes time. As you work through the process, you take careful notes especially if the pattern is for customer use. As an experienced seamstress, I tend to evade the details. This is because I like to leave myself some room from 'off the cuff' creativity. I am self-taught from human garment making, seeing and using patterns for over three decades.  With this experience comes a bit a fortitude, where you trust instincts. If this is instruction is a first draft pattern then the notes will definitely be useful to help flesh out a final draft.

Very often garments are produced a little larger and scaled down before pattern is drafted--in other words it is drape.  It is much easier and cost effective to adjust down than upwards.  If you cut too much, you have to restart.  Compare this to cooking using measurements of liquid and season.

Stay tuned to Part IV: Inventory.

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