Showing posts with label pattern coding. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern coding. Show all posts

Monday, April 9, 2018

Pattern Coding System Part V: Storing.

Pattern Coding System Web Series:

Part I: The Coding.
Part II: The Photograph.
Part III: The Instructions.
Part IV: The Inventory.

Finally we have arrived to the end.  I know it has been a while since I submitted Part IV, but no worries, we are here to close this series and give you access (those who are new) to the express notifications of the previous parts!

Storing your patterns is a very important part of this process of designing and coding your work.  You might think "this is obvious" what I am about to say, but the truth is, I feel it necessary to share this because my first generation of designs for Barbie, well...they are barely retrievable.  The envelopes make a good home for your pattern pieces, while a bin, tote, or covered box provides a dust/moisture free environment.

Just as you want your inventory accessible for last minute retrieval, where you keep your patterns is optimum for putting together your outfits in record time. Place your patterns in their respective location in numerical order!

Pattern Storage Box
I am learning more and more that this is huge!  Here is why.  This year alone instead of increasing my pattern drawer and collection, I am now re-branding, rebuilding, and expanding the current.  Likewise, I recently created some patterns for sharing, and decided to launch the pattern code to the piece or outfit for this Spring/Summer 2018 Collection. Attaching the pattern number to the outfit further reduces the need to create brand new patterns for pieces that already exist somewhere in the design system.

As your outfits become a blending of several patterns, you soon realize how heavily dependent you are on Storing your patterns!

Finally, like all things to be accessible, you must keep them in there proper place when not in use.  When you are working on a project, grab a 1 gallon baggie and place all of your patterns required for your project inside.  Not only does it further protect them from damage, but keeps them together.  You will not have spend hours looking for the shoes you know you pulled out of the drawer.  You will know they are with the cardigan, slacks, and blouse!

Thanks for following this series.  Feel free to comment and share if you find any of this useful! 💖💖💖

Thursday, December 21, 2017

Part IV: Inventory.

Pattern Coding System Web Series:

Part I: The Coding.
Part II: The Photograph.
Part III: The Instructions.

The next part, which is the prelude to the finale of this five part pattern building system is the inventory tracking system.  It does not have to be fancy.  You make as simple this:


...to as extravagant as a database, with references, cross references, and indices utilizing MS Access/Support.

My choice now is the former, but of course if/when things outgrow my simple system, then it is off to something more sophisticated.

As it stands, I retain and update this listing as new patterns enter the 'inventory'.  I keep/maintain the current copy in a binder next to the drawer/box that stores the patterns.  When I add patterns, I do so manually by scratching notes at the bottom of this 'hard copy'.  Each month-end, I transfer these notes into the Word.doc inventory, whereby it receives the official update.

The inventory is superb.  It allows me to scan the listing to search out exactly what I want or need, without having to go through the patterns one-by-one. The effort is to the handle the patterns as infrequently as possible in order to maintain the life of the envelope.

Stay tuned to the next and final chapter of this series: Part V: Storage.

Quiz: How did I arrive at numbering Pattern # 10207/Crop Top, Walking Shorts?


Thursday, December 7, 2017

Pattern Coding System Part III: The Instructions.

Before I review briefly the "instructions" component of making a pattern for future use,  I want to direct those who are new to the series to these previous posts:

Pattern Coding System I: Coding
Pattern Coding System II: The Photograph

Without further delay, the instructions are a must have.  Sometimes the instructions can evolve from simple notes on the back of a story board, to a full scale instruction sheet that is available to the consumer for use.

No matter what these instructions look like, their intentions are the same, which is to aid the designer in reconstruction. I present to you a perfect example of a pattern originating in Dec/Jan 2015/2016, whereby an idea was born, but no instructions accompanied it. There was a simple prototype to what could evolve into a pattern, but it basically was a rough idea married to a re-purposed fabric. But the end was seamless. However, recently, a customer found the item on our Cyber Holiday Sale listing and leaped at the bonus price offered. Ironically, the plan was to create the pattern, only I had not carved out the time yet to do so. The envelope was ready.

Now is the time. A customer is waiting.

Here is the 2015 garment, purchased in a bulk direct sell order.

 dmoore0170

Here is the 2017 version from a constructed pattern. It is much like the original with only a few creative changes to improve use and wear by the doll model.

Re-creating Taryn 2010 (2017 edition)

In order to cement the 2017 version, photo/instructions were devised, rough notes, and of course pattern construction. Take a look at the collage, then the following notes...

Treated as a direct sell to a repeat customer, the customer was allowed to arbitrate some suggestions for the sleeve, that included an elastic wrist at the end. I initiated these suggestions as I found they worked well with the Prince Tribute "Purple Pop Star".
The t-shirt is from our B.O.C. Graphix Tee "Curly Girls United".  The skirt is more fitted than the original, 2015, and the customer selected the dark navy denim!  Great choice!


Instructions...most simplified, are:

1. Make sure that pattern pieces are cut, displayed on the fabrics of choice.  
2. Measure the doll model to ensure proper fit.
3. Cut pattern pieces.
4. Pull labels that are for intended use.  Select lace trim and thread for top stitching.
5. Overlock edges to prevent fraying.
 etc.

This is generic and simplified, but you get the idea. The instructions are going to direct you to an efficient garment or final piece without interruptions. If there are to be some checks/rechecks, then ultimately they are minimal to an otherwise chaotic process without instructions.

Fulfilling the instructions initially takes time. As you work through the process, you take careful notes especially if the pattern is for customer use. As an experienced seamstress, I tend to evade the details. This is because I like to leave myself some room from 'off the cuff' creativity. I am self-taught from human garment making, seeing and using patterns for over three decades.  With this experience comes a bit a fortitude, where you trust instincts. If this is instruction is a first draft pattern then the notes will definitely be useful to help flesh out a final draft.

Very often garments are produced a little larger and scaled down before pattern is drafted--in other words it is drape.  It is much easier and cost effective to adjust down than upwards.  If you cut too much, you have to restart.  Compare this to cooking using measurements of liquid and season.

Stay tuned to Part IV: Inventory.

Friday, November 17, 2017

Pattern Coding System II - The Photograph

In a previous post back in May, I shared with you my creating a pattern coding system.  This coding system evolved from barely keeping track to an envelope with a date encoded tracking number with the necessary pieces for future retrieval.

Pattern pieces can quickly get away from if you are not filing them properly.  But you can also forget you have a pattern at all.  Here comes the 'photo' snapshot of the garment constructed to help speed up your recall of a previous sewing session.  Again, after many constructions of various patterns, garments, costumes, and shoes, somethings tend to run together into a big mind blur.


Taking a photograph of new patterns in their construct phase, as well as updating patterns that did not include photos, proves to be an incredible way to continue building a unique pattern drawer.

Next update: the Pattern Coding System III - The Instructions.

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

Pattern Coding System...Must Have!

Many want to know the system I use to organize the many patterns I create.  In the last 1.5 years, over two dozen pattern constructions came to life.  If there is one or two or five, you can toss them in a drawer and maybe never use them again.

But for me this is not a one and done.  Many of the patterns created are the roots to designing a new pattern.  I need a system to not only organize the pattern pieces but have that system available for speedy recall without having to go through large volumes to find what I need.

After coding the pattern, I create an envelope, assign a photo from the garment, name it, then print.  All pieces fit into the envelope and the envelope goes into a file.  On a separate database, the patterns list in order, with an abbreviation of the garment.  I scan the abbreviations to find what I need then move over to the number.  It is much easier to find the pattern by name first.

Now let's take a look backwards at the coding system.

Like the store, there is a "dewey" system to code each pattern.  I do not randomly select numbers and assign it to a project.  The High-Low Blouse with Skinny Denim White Slacks #20522, derived from my denim pattern.  However, the blouse is new, which makes the pattern new!

The pattern number is minimally five digits.  It starts with the day of the week. A pattern made on Sunday starts with "1",  while one made on Wednesday starts with "4", etc.

The second number is the month.  Single digit numbers receive a "0" in the tens place.  For example May is the 5th month of the year, thus using "05".

Finally the third number of the pattern coding system is the calendar day of the month.

After planning the project and drafting the pattern, I look to the day/date which gives me the pattern number.  This pattern construction started and finished on Monday, May 24, 2017.  And that is how I coded the High-Low Blouse with Skinny Denim White Slacks Pattern #20522.